My first visit to Bangkok, in late 1996, was both dizzying and intimidating. Luckily I wasn’t traveling alone: I was still married then. Kao San Road was mostly low-budget guest houses–with not much more than a flimsy wall separating mattress-on-floor only rooms–and the local tavern was “Buddy Beer.” (The owner now owns dozens of high-end restaurants and hotels on and around KSR.) Bangkok has changed quite a bit. It’s no longer the absurdly cheap Asian city it used to be, but it’s still a whole lot of fun and the important, anchient, sites haven’t changed.